Holton's Colorful History, Jackson County Historical Society

JACKSON COUNTY HISTORICAL SOCIETY
"Preserving the past . . . to serve the future"

Helpful hint:

If you have a particular name you are searching for, such as Brown, you can use your EDIT key at the top of your computer screen, click on FIND, and then enter that name.

INDEX to:
"Holton's Colorful History" - a series of articles published in The Holton Recorder by W.T. BECK 26 October 1950 - 10 July 1952.
[Most of the information is Holton's early history - 1855-1900.]

[#1] 1854 Kansas Territory
[#2] Jackson County's Beginnings
Organized in 1855
[#3] We Had a Plantation
Immigrant Train Arrives
[#4] Visit from John BROWN
Grave of First White Child
[#5] Holton's Early Buildings
Our First Railroad
M.E. Church Organized
[#6] Courthouse Built
Population 400
Voice Of The Press
[#7] Drouth And Pestilence
Dr. Havens Speaks
[#8] The Early Years
The Indians Were Here

HOLTON'S COLORFUL HISTORY

This is the first in a series of articles written by W.T. BECK for
The Holton Recorder beginning October 26, 1950.
[Typed by Anna (FERNKOPF) WILHELM]

[1854 Kansas Territory]

Holton, as towns go, stands today as a finished product. Its inhabitants include only a handful of residents who were here in the early formative days. Most of our citizens have moved here in recent years and have heard little of the history of the town. We shall try to make these sketches short and interesting. If by chance some of our teachers should choose to use this historical matter as a text in their schools, it will be perfectly permissible.

In 1850 there was no Kansas; for the spread of plain and prairie, of hill and upland which we now call Kansas was included in a huge realm that stretched from the northern border of Texas to the southern border of Canada. It had no name save "Unorganized Territory"; but in speech and writing it was usually called "the Indian country."

Of the state of development of 1850 of that part of the Indian country which we now call Kansas, we have very little detailed knowledge. Indians were, of course, the predominant population; not only native tribes but emigrant tribes forced from the East were present in considerable number. The white population of 1850 is unknown but in 1854, when Kansas Territory was organized, it has been estimated that some 1400 whites lived within its borders. Of these 1400, about half belonged to the two military establishments at Fort Leavenworth and Fort Riley. The remaining half were scattered among the trading posts and missions within the territory. Council Grove (in present Morris County), Uniontown (near the Kansas River in present Shawnee County), and Delaware Post Office (on the Kansas River ten miles above its mouth), were the important trading "towns" of Kansas in pre-Territorial days; but it is doubtful if any of these posts had a permanent population above 30. Eight missions established by the churches of various denominations, including the well-known Shawnee Mission, St. Mary's Mission, and the Catholic Osage Mission (in present Neosho county), were also small centers of white population.

In fact, the entire West was scarcely more than an embryo when the year began in 1850. West of the Mississippi, there were but five states: Texas, Louisiana, Arkansas, Missouri and Iowa. In these five states, according to the census of 1850, lived over 90% of all the inhabitants of the West. But all the inhabitants of the West in 1850 made up a population that was but little different from Kansas of the present day, numbering less than two million souls.

Kansans on the whole have reason to be proud of their century of achievement. With the maturity and experience acquired during the past ten decades, still greater and more diverse contributions to the national good should reasonably be expected of us during the next century. It is all too evident at present that we shall need all the courage, vigor, knowledge and buoyancy that can be supplied by the united efforts of East and West, of North and South in the years to come.

[#2]
October 30, 1950 The Holton Recorder - Holton, Jackson County, Kansas
Jackson County's Beginnings
(Bookman Club Collaborating)

A party of exploring Frenchmen led by M. de BOURGMENT were the first white men to see the country which is now known as Jackson county. They passed through here in 1724 and made friends with the Paduoca Indians, who then roamed over the territory. In 1819 an expedition headed by Stephen H. LONG made a trail from Pittsburgh to the Rocky Mountains, which passed through here. The country was described as consisting of prairie, with trees near the streams, covered by a waving sea of wild grasses. The surface presented a constant succession of small rounded hills becoming larger and more abrupt as one approached the river beds. Up to 1850 there were no settlements here. Nomadic bands of savages were the only visitors and the grass furnished food only for the herds of buffalo and deer which roamed over the hills and drank at the streams.

But the country could not always remain a terra incognita. The onward march of civilization at length reached this part of what was known as the "Great American Desert." Its possibilities as a future home for a great people were recognized by some of those who
"Crossed the prairies, as of old
Their fathers crossed the sea,"
and some of them stopped here. Several bands of Indians are known to have been in possession of this part of Kansas at that time. Gradually these were driven out or their land purchased from them until only the Potawatomies remained.

Organized In 1855

Jackson County was organized on Monday, September 24, 1855. It was then known as Calhoun county and reached from its present northern border to the Kaw, or as it was called at that time, the Kansas river. The county seat was at Calhoun, situated on the river seven miles from Topeka. In 1858 a change in the county seat was voted and it went to the new town of Holton. Less than 150 votes were cast at this election, Circleville being the principal contender.

One authority says that Capt. ALLEY, from Kentucky, was a settler in the county some time in the 1830's, but there is no further record of such a settlement. N.D. LEWIS is believed to have been the first permanent settler. He came in 1854 and pre-empted what is now the Roy THOMAS farm, 4 1/4 miles east of Holton. Other settlers who came at about the same period, or a little later, were John RIPPETOE, S.W. McCOMAS, Walter PARMENTER, Wm. A. BLOSSOM, C. J. COWELL, Louis SARBACH, I. I. TABER, W. S. HOAGLIN, Rufus OURSLER, Peter DICKSON, Chas. BATEMAN, Wm. and Jim BAXTER and Wm. KNIPE, to mention a few whose names were familiar in the later history of the town and county.

In 1859 the name of the county was changed from Calhoun to Jackson, marking the triumph of the Free State party over the southern sympathizers who wished to add Kansas to the slave holding states.

[#3]
November 2, 1950, The Holton Recorder - Holton, Jackson County, Kansas
We Had A Plantation
(Bookman Club Collaborating)

In 1855 Phineas SKINNER came into Jackson county from Missouri and planned to establish a plantation on a large scale. He laid out a tract about ten miles square from the east edge of what is now Holton, west to Soldier Creek, north to the Parallel, and south to the Reservation. Mr. SKINNER was a slave holder of the better class, and had been a successful planter in Missouri. He laid out a town which he named Elk City, two miles west and one mile north of Holton, on the SCHIRMER corner. He built a stone house, established a grist mill and laid in a large stock of goods. A number of his friends followed him to the new country, and he made extensive plans to build up a pro-slavery colony. However, the great influx of Free State settlers and the accidental death of Mr. SKINNER brought his plans to an end. Most of the colonists returned to Missouri, the store was looted by Jim LANE's troops, the mill was bought by Peter RIEDERER and moved four miles east of Holton where we of the next generation enjoyed many a picnic and fishing party, and Elk City became one of the lost cities of Jackson county.

Immigrant Train Arrives
In May, 1856, a train of six covered wagons, each drawn by two yoke of oxen, in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, started a long trek to join these who were coming from the north and east to insure another free state for the union. They were financed by the Kansas Society of Milwaukee which was headed by E. D. HOLTON, and had raised several hundred dollars for the expedition. E. G. ROSS, later senator from Kansas, was the captain of the band. Others were J. B. COFFIN and family, J. B. HUTTS and family; the LATHROP family, six unmarried men, and eight other persons. At Janesville, Wisc., several other persons joined the party, Andrew SMITH's family of five and another ROSS family of five. The company was robbed when they reached Missouri and then warned to turn back. They changed their course and went to Nebraska City, a rendezvous for Free State men. There they met General James H. LANE with two hundred men. Others joined the party until there was a train of 82 wagons. The company traveled the Lane road to Kansas. When they reached Elk Creek they cut timbers to make a bridge, crossed it and made camp where the Central School now stands.

At this place, the confluence of two streams on pleasant grassy hills, they said: "Here we will build our town and here make homes for ourselves and our children."

It Was Named Holton.

The stakes were driven and a surveyor with the party laid out the town which was named "Holton" in honor of the man who had helped to bring it into being. A building 20x30 feet was at once erected of logs to house the company until cabins could be built. It was so planned that it could be used for a fort in case of necessity. It was known as Jim LANE's Fort until it was torn down.

That fall General LANE, who seems to have been a guiding spirit for the new settlers, warned them that it would be unsafe to remain here during the winter because of the border ruffians. So the entire company moved to Topeka. Among the names of this little band we find Mr. and Mrs. J. B. COFFIN and the WESTS.

In December, 1856, members of the company met in the old Constitution Hall in Topeka and re-organized, but there were only a few of the original band in the organization. A committee was chosen to visit the townsite to find if any of their claims had been "jumped." This committee consisted of Dr. E. H. GRANT, Dr. PENFIELD and Capt. W. F. CREITZ. J. B. INGERSOL was sent up from Topeka to lay off the town lots.

[#4]
November 6, 1950 The Holton Recorder - Holton, Jackson County, Kansas
Visit From John BROWN
(Bookman Club Collaborating)

In the battle which was fought between the two factions of the early settlers to make the state "the homestead of the free," Jackson County was the scene of several conflicts. The most famous of these is known as the Battle of the Spurs and is described in James REDPATH's book, "The Public Life of John BROWN." John BROWN left Lawrence for Nebraska January 10, 1856. At the third resting placing of "Jim LANE's army" which had been named Concord, but which subsequent settlers called Holton, a party of 30 pro-slavery men, who had followed them from Lecompton, approached so near that it was necessary to halt and make a defense. BROWN had at this time four white companions and three Negro men. The captain took possession of two log cabins in the woods. This was on the farm of Albert FULLER, later owned by Alex DUNN, five miles north of Holton. The pursuers surrounded them - at a safe distance - and sent to Atchison for reinforcements. Twelve men joined them, making a force of 42 against eight.

Captain BROWN and his men emerged from the cabins, and the Lecompton posse put spurs to their horses and fled. Not a shot was fired. Four Atchison men, ashamed to run, stood their ground and were taken prisoners. The old men ordered them to dismount and give their horses to the Negroes. They swore, greatly to the indignation of their religious captor. Drawing a pistol, he ordered them to kneel and pray, and during the five days he held them captive, he made them pray night and morning.

This reference to Holton as Concord is the only one I can find, and it is probably an inaccuracy (for which the historian REDPATH is rather noted), for certainly the earliest settlers of the town found no settlement here, and they named it Holton at once.

Grave Of First White Child

Until a few years ago, in the northwest part of Rafter's Park, stood a spreading oak tree which marked the grave of the first white child buried in Jackson county. A party of immigrants reached this spot and halted because of the child's illness. Death came to it there, and the little grave was made under the branches of the tree. The old oak is gone the way of all nature, but twenty years ago the Samuel LINSCOTT Chapter, D.A.R., planted, as near the roots as possible, a memorial tree to take its place. Later the chapter placed a huge granite boulder on the grave itself, as nearly as could be ascertained, with a bronze plate bearing the inscription:
"1849 - The First Grave -1931, marked by the Samuel LINSCOTT Chapter, Daughters of the American Revolution."

Peter BRYANT's beautiful poem, "The Story of the Old Oak Told," commemorates this incident as well as other events in Jackson county history.

The first white child born in Holton was Carrie HAMM.

This is the fifth in a series of articles written
by W.T. BECK for The Holton Recorder.
[#5]
November 2, 1950, The Holton Recorder, Holton, Jackson County, Kansas
Holton's Early Buildings
(Bookman Club Collaborating)

W. F. CREITZ and his brother built the first frame building on Lot No. 1, Park,where the MALLINGER building now stands, for a grocery store, and sold the first goods brought to Holton.

In 1857, Thos. G. WATTERS built the first hotel, the Holton House, on the northwest corner of the square. Shortly after, E. M. PARK also put up a hotel.

Gradually the business district was built up, to keep pace with the growing town. The first courthouse was on the east side of the square in the J. G. HINNEN block. The first school house was on Wisconsin Avenue where the C. W. THOMPSON home now stands, and the first teacher was Miss Anna PARROTT. The first Methodist Sunday school was held in the school house. J. H. GORDON and brother opened the first general store of dry goods and groceries on the south side of the square. Supplies in the early years were purchased in Leavenworth and Topeka and brought to Holton by teams of oxen or horses. Mail came from Topeka.

Our First Railroad

The first railroad to be completed was the Central Branch of the Missouri Pacific across the north part of the county through Netawaka and Whiting. The Kansas Central, a narrow gauge road, from Leavenworth, reached Holton August 22, 1872. The first train drawn by the engine "Holton" arrived at 10:30 a.m. on that day. A grand celebration was held in the courthouse, and speeches were made by E. F. PERLEY, mayor of Holton, T. L. JOHNSON, mayor of Leavenworth, Ex-Governor N. GREEN, Captain Geo. T. ANTHONY, and Hon. Alexander CALDWELL. Later the road was made into a standard gauge. Now it has passed forever from history, a victim of progress in the shape of motor transportation.

In 1871 Holton became a city of the third class. The first mayor was T. J. ADAMSON, the councilmen, I. I. TABER, Ed VETTER, M. M. BECK, J. A. SCOTT and H. P. BISHOP. Of the officers of the first ten years of the history of Holton as a city, not one is now living.

The first flag displayed in Holton was made by Mrs. COFFIN and Mrs. WEST. It was used at Banner on July 4, 1856. The next year it was brought to Holton on a big wagon drawn by several yoke of oxen and unfurled with appropriate ceremony.

M.E. Church Organized

The Methodist Episcopal church was organized in 1858, by Eli H. ROBERTSON, assisted by James LAWRENCE. The first pastor in charge was Rev. Wm. KNIPE. The Presbyterian church was organized in 1867, the first pastor being Rev. Chas. PARKER. Mr. HOLTON, the town's godfather, offered to give a bell to the first completed church edifice. The Methodists and Presbyterians were the contestants, but the Methodists built of brick while the Presbyterians erected a frame building and won the bell. The brick for the Methodist church was hauled by teams from Leavenworth.

The first Evangelical organization was made in 1862, Rev. McKESSON, pastor, and the first Christian church in the same year, with Elder A. J. FRANCIS in charge.
In 1863 the Masonic Lodge was started and the Odd Fellows in 1868.

In 1871 the red brick school house, part of the present Central building, was erected at a cost of $10,000. Among the early, if not the first teachers in this school, were Prof. SCHOLES, Mrs. NIXON and Mrs. STOUT.

[#6]
November 13, 1950 The Holton Recorder - Holton, Jackson County, Kansas
Courthouse Built
(Bookman Club Collaborating)

The old courthouse was built in the center of the public square in 1872 at a cost of $23,000, to be replaced by the new one in 1921 at a cost of $300,000.

With its militant Free State sentiment, Holton did its part in the Civil War. Most of those who enlisted from this part of the state served in the 11th Kansas which saw a great deal of service. A body of Home Guards was also organized.

Jackson county had more soldiers in the Union Army, in proportion to her population, than any other county in the country, save one.

Population 400

By 1869 Holton had about 400 inhabitants. Business houses built around the
square housed three dry goods and grocery stores, one grocery store, a tinware and stove store,harness shop, beer saloon, barber shop, two drug stores, photography gallery and hotel. Among the names of the merchants of that day some that will be remembered are T. J. ADAMSON, Bob ADAMSON, C. A. WALKER, Ed VETTER, W. M. OAKS, David STANLEY, and Mrs. E. FAIRCHILD.

Voice Of The Press

The voice of the press was early heard in the new town. The first newspaper, called The Crickett, was edited by Thomas G. WATTERS in 1859. It was written in pen and ink and illustrated with drawings in colored pencils. It was published weekly for two months.

The first printing press was brought to town in 1867 by A. H. MOORE, who started The Jackson County News, a seven column Republican newspaper. Frank H. STOUT bought an interest in the paper in 1871, but sold it in a short time. Later Geo. S. IRWIN bought a half interest which he retained until 1872. In that year Frank A. ROOT started The Holton Express, also Republican in politics. In 1874, Mr. ROOT purchased the News and consolidated the two papers. March 2, 1875, M. M. BECK and J. W. SHINER started The Holton Recorder and a month later bought the Express, publishing it as The Recorder and Express until January 1, 1877, when the word Express was dropped from the heading. It has been the Recorder ever since.

In 1868 a stock company was formed and The Jackson County Democrat started. It lasted about a year. In 1877 J. C. LILLIE of Leavenworth started The Holton Argus which died in six months. In 1878 the first number of The Holton Signal appeared, edited by Thos. A. FAIRCHILD and W. W. SARGENT. In 1879 Mr. FAIRCHILD sold his interest. Under various editors it has remained the Democratic organ of the city.

The Holton Tribune, under various editors, J. Irwin GABEL, J. C. BROWN, T. C. McCONNELL, and J. H. MILLER, was started early in the century, to be absorbed later by the Recorder. It was a Republican paper. There was also a Populist paper, The Sunflower, in existence for a few years under J. S. ORR, Frank KIER and others, later merged with the Recorder. C. V. HAMM edited a newspaper, The Independent, for a few years.

The First National Bank was started in 1872 by T. P. MOORE. S. K. LINSCOTT later became a partner. The partnership was dissolved and Mr. LINSCOTT started the Linscott Bank, later the National Bank of Holton.

[#7]
November 16, 1950, The Holton Recorder - Holton, Jackson County, Kansas
Drouth And Pestilence
(Bookman Club Collaborating)

The first Kansas drouth occurred the summer of 1860, when the heavens seemed to turn to brass and the sun's unbeclouded face shown day after day, week after week, an oppressingly hot wind blowing the while. The newly arrived settlers in Jackson county suffered in common with those in other sections of the state. They had had five years of good crops, but the scorching sun and wind despoiled the land of every growing thing.

But the worst calamity that ever visited Jackson county, as well as the rest of the state, was "grasshopper year". It was in 1874, on August 7, that a dark cloud completely obscured the sun and sky. Worse than storm clouds, it was caused by billions of insects, and it settled on the land with devastating results. In a few hours every green thing in the state had been devoured. Trees were shorn of their leaves - grass, grain, fruit, everything edible, was gone. Even clothing exposed to their ravages, was riddled by the insects. It was a sudden and complete disaster and left the settlers in a state of destitution and despair with which no calamity of later years can compare.

A few, comparatively, gave up the fight to establish the new state and went "back home". But most of them stayed and struggled on. Relief was sent by generous citizens of other states. The winter was passed in a state of semi-starvation, and the next year there was a continual fight to eradicate the young hoppers hatched from eggs left by the original invaders. The hardihood and endurance these early settlers displayed through this period can scarcely be estimated by those of succeeding generations.

Dr. Havens Speaks

Concerning the people of Holton, Rev. Dr. HAVENS, pastor of the Presbyterian church in 1880, said: "The character of the population of Holton is worthy of special notice. The city has been especially fortunate in respect to this. In its early history it is said to have contained its full proportion of that undesirable and unprofitable class which infest newly settled places - adventurers who have no intention of becoming permanent residents, but remaining only so long as they can gain a precarious living by preying upon others. They usually remain till a better and more permanent class outnumbers and crowds them out. Very few, if any, are now to be found among its citizens. By far the larger portion have brought with them their moral habits and religious principles, which have given to the social life of the city a moral tone and preponderating influence in favor of religion, very unusual in a community with so brief a history, and composed of members coming from so many and various parts of the country. So prevalent and strong is the moral sentiment of the community, that for several years no demoralizing places such as liquor saloons, gambling houses and billiard rooms, have been tolerated".

A noble tribute by a great man to a worthy people.

[#8]
November 20, 1950 The Holton Recorder - Holton, Jackson County, Kansas
The Early Years
(Bookman Club Collaborating)

Gradually the severe hardships and trials disappeared, and the town began to thrive. Just as individuals have distinct personalities, so do towns and cities. The town of Holton, from its founding, attracted to it the same intelligent, fair minded, reliable type of people as were its founders; people who were neither very rich or very poor, and who all pulled together for its common good. The town became known for its interest in schools and churches.

In the year 1880, C. Y. ROOPE was elected Superintendent of the Holton public schools. Before that time the schools were only partially graded. He at once graded them and brought new life into the school system. For nine years he molded the youthful minds, stimulated ambitions, developed unexpected talents, and put the Holton public schools on a high plane from which they never declined. In the year 1881, the first class graduated. It was composed of Sue D. HOAGLIN, Sadie CHASE, and Effie E. PRICE.

The commencement exercises were held in the courtroom of the old courthouse, there being no other public meeting place outside of the churches. For many years that courtroom was the only amusement center, and amateur and professional dramatic performances, lectures, musical, and other entertainments were held there.

Improvements of all kinds began to appear. Streets were graded, brick walks took the place of wooden ones; the board fence which enclosed the courthouse yard, with a wooden stile in the center of each side, so fascinating to the children of that day, with their three steps up on one side and three steps down on the other, was taken down, and a substantial board walk laid around the courthouse yard. Frame buildings around the square were torn down and brick and stone ones erected. Small frame churches were replaced with stone or brick. Campbell University was founded and a beautiful building erected. Fine, substantial homes were built over the town, and it took on an air of prosperity and permanence.

The Indians Were Here

Before the allotment of the lands on the diminished Pottawatomie Indian Reservation, whose northern boundary line lies three miles directly south of the west part of Holton, its most profitable business came from the Indian trade, it being the nearest and most accessible town to the reservation.

In 1880, the reports from the Indian agency showed 450 Prairie Band Pottawatomie Indians living on their reservation. Every member of the tribe, from the very old men and women to the tiniest papoose, drew an annuity or head-right from the government, which was paid in quarterly payments at the Agency.

The merchants gave very easy credit to these wards of the government, so easy that when their quarterly checks arrived, most of the money had been spent in advance. A large part of the merchants' stocks consisted of articles in demand with the Indians: blankets, shawls, calicos, buckskins, moccasins, beads, and tobacco.

The Indian pay-days were always great events to the businessmen of Holton. The various merchants and some of the bankers would drive to the Agency, some of they carrying several thousands of dollars in money, so that they might cash the annuity checks, and deduct the amounts owing by the Indians. The cash that remained of these checks were quickly spent, the Holton merchants always being paid the greater portion of it.

The streets of Holton were seldom without some of these Indians, and they presented a picturesque appearance, walking along in Indian file, riding in wagons drawn by wiry little Indian ponies, or sitting stolidly in front of business houses, the women dressed with brightly colored shawls, black head-dresses, long calico dresses and moccasins, frequently one carrying a papoose on her back; the men wearing gay blankets, fringed buckskin leggins and moccasins, and all of them decorated with many colored beads.

Link to Home Page

Jackson County Historical Society
216 New York Avenue
Holton, KS 66416

Non-profit 501(C)(3)
e-mail: jchs@holtonks.net
Museum Phone: 785-364-2087 or Phone: 785-364-4991

OUR SOCIETY IS A TAX EXEMPT ORGANIZATION, SECTION 501 (C) (3) OF THE
INTERNAL REVENUE CODE. DONATIONS ARE TAX DEDUCTIBLE.